Our Ireland Trip from S-T

Sanachi: Irish story telling with singing was our entertainment Saturday evening September 15 at Brod Tullaroan. These guys were fabulous, we participated, and ended the evening with a cup of Irish coffee.






He also quoted poetry and Shakespeare.

Shopping in Blarney: About half the tour group went into Blarney to shop while the rest of us had a day of leisure in Ennis on September 13. They were delayed getting back because of a traffic accident, so we waited dinner and all had a late supper together.

Thomastown: Just outside on the banks of the River Arrigle, stands Jerpoint Abbey, a well preserved Cistercian monastic ruins. It was self-sustaining, so there were many buildings to suit the needs of the community. The wind was brisk and a drizzle started and my cold was coming on, so the carvings and crosses were starting to all look alike by this time, but it really was a magnificent place.







Travellers, Irish: It didn't seem appropriate to take photos, but they are an ancient people, sometimes called Roma or Gypsies, which travel in caravans. We did see small groups parked along the road with vans and trailers and laundry. When I googled the term I was surprised to see there are a lot of social workers and about 80 organizations making a living trying to fight for their civil rights and new regulations to protect them. If I might just editorialize a moment, I’d guess that if they want to preserve what's left of their culture they should dump the camp followers! They've made it a few thousand years without them. There are also Irish Travellers in the United States, having come here from Ireland in the 19th century, living in their own communities, but becoming ever more assimilated and middle-class moving from trailers to McMansions, old vans to new SUVs.

Our Ireland Trip from Q-R

Quebec: The Dunbrody, (we visited a replica of this 3 masted cargo ship), was commissioned in Quebec in 1845 and had a low mortality rate. It took Irish emigrants to Canada and returned to Ireland with timber, cotton and fertilizer. Actors playing the parts of passengers, one first class, one steerage, talked to us about the conditions

This cubicle might hold a family of 6 or more, or if they had no family, it might be people unrelated. They were sick and starving, so many didn't live through the passage. The passenger/actor who talked to us, a widow with 6 children, didn't make it.

First class passengers had more space and better food. Sort of reminds me of the difference between first class and coach on the airlines, but at least the time is less.

Only first class passengers could come up for a little fresh air--I suppose it helped control the spread of disease, but just worsened conditions for those already sick and using slop pails. I think only the most hardy Irish-Americans and Irish-Canadians survived to pass along their genes and desire to make it in a new location.

Residents of Kilkenny: Three people from the community met with our group on September 17th and fielded questions about the country and city. They were well informed, and our group asked good questions. My husband rarely takes photos of people, and I think I left my camera in my room.

Rock of Cashel and the fortress of Brian Boru: The word "cashel" is from the Irish word caiseal, meaning "fortress." The Rock of Cashel is several ruins, the largest structure is the remains of St. Patrick's Cathedral, built in the 13th century. It was destroyed by fire in the 15th century and later restored. Cromwell's forces destroyed it again burning to death hundreds of townspeople who had fled there. The British version is that this was a civil war; The Irish Catholic version is that it was a brutal invasion by a foreign power. I don't know that you could find a single person more hated to this day in Ireland than Oliver Cromwell.

If this sight doesn't put your heart in your throat, it's as hard as a rock from the Burren! Call it a castle, a fortress or cathedral, but it is incredible. Our guide Bridget seem to be one of the few guides who talked to us who believed with her heart the Christian symbolism she discussed.

Our Ireland Trip from N - P

Normans in Ireland:The Vikings (Northmen) invaded Ireland and other European coastal countries, including what is now France and that area became known as Normandy. In the 11th century the Normans conquered England. In the 12th century, the Anglo-Normans invaded Ireland (sort of invited), but they pretty much settled down and married into the Irish. Many of the castles date from this period. As near as I can tell, my surname and my husband's came from Normandy as do many Irish and Scots names.

Ormand or Kilkenny Castle: The town of Kilkenny is located on the River Nour, and the Castle of the Earls and Dukes of Ormond (Butler family) overlooks it all. It was given to the town in 1967 and some of it is used as a conference center, with a design center, workshops and gift shop in the outbuildings. The castle had a wonderful art collection, but we couldn’t take photos inside. We visited the restored stair hall with a mahogany staircase, the drawing room and library, restored to the 1830s look, and the picture gallery, which had recently been painted red .

The design center, workshops and gift shops were located across the street from the castle on the grounds of the former stables.

The Conference Center, which was also part of the Butler estate.

Poulnabrone Dolmon: We visited The Burren coast on September 10 stopping first at the information center in Kilfenora and saw an ancient tomb. We began the day with a history lecture covering the Celts, Romans, Vikings and English, with a focus on County Clare.

Lou, Barbara, Jim, Jim, Barbara, Adele, Bill, Maggie, Phil, Robert, Roxanna, Bob

The educational center and museum at Kilfenora.



An ancient tomb on the Burren.

The most barren landscape you'll ever see.

Our Ireland Trip from K - M

Kilkenny Walking tour: Our guide had wonderful tales and insights as he led us on a walking tour after lunch on the 15th. We saw the Old Jail House, St. Francis Abbey brewery, the Black Abbey, the Rothe House and we heard about Dame Alice Kyteler, of Kyteler’s Inn (had lunch there) who was tried for witchcraft in 1323.

I don't remember his name, but doesn't he just look the part of a fine Irish guide to share a few stories? And we saw beautiful flowers everywhere. Next to the brightly painted stucco buildings it was quite charming, and Ireland was having an unusually warm September, after a cool, rainy summer.

St. Francis Abbey Brewery: This is Ireland’s oldest brewery and dates from the early 14th century when monks in St. Francis Abbey began brewing at this location. It brews Smithwick’s and also produces Budweiser for the Irish market.

I believe this building started as a castle in the 1200s, and was reconceived over the years until it has quite a mixed architectural heritage, trying hard to be classical, and a history of use as a town hall, courthouse and jail (gaol). There were jail cells on the lower level and we filled one to hear about the terrible crowding and conditions.

The Black Abbey, with some members of our group, Ann, Sue, Lila, Bill, Art and me in the lower right.

Limerick: Our driver John was from Limerick, so on the way through his town we stopped at a monument to the Treaty of Limerick which displays the stone where the treaty ending the war between the Jacobites and the supporters of William of Orange was signed in 1691.




Mayor of Kilkenny: After we unpacked and settled into our hotel rooms at the Kilkenny Ormande on September 14, we were off to meet the Mayor Marie Fitzpatrick where we learned about her interest in the social problems of teen-agers, particularly alcohol. She explained the city and county legal structure and educational system.



Moher, Cliffs of: On September 10th after visiting the Burren we viewed the incredible Cliffs of Moher. There is a new visitor and interpretive center which opened this year at a cost of about 30 million euros. A bridal party arrived, taking photos I hope, and not for the ceremony. The bride and her attendants were about to blow away.



As Irish buildings go, this one really isn't very old--maybe 150 years or so--built by a far sighted man who saw the possibilities for tourism.



If you don't blow off the cliff, it's probably a great background for a formal portrait.

Our Ireland trip from H-J

Hotels: In Ennis (County Clare) we stayed in the Old Ground Hotel September 9-13, some of it dating to the 18th century--lots of nooks and crannies and stairways--and fabulous food. In Kilkenny we stayed at the Kilkenny Ormande, September 14-19 (website not available when I checked) which was much newer. Both served a lovely buffet breakfast, on white table cloths, but we could order on the side almost anything we wanted from bacon and eggs to porridge (oatmeal) to grilled tomatoes. Good beds. I’d recommend both. Excellent staff.

Lots of golf parties at The Old Ground Hotel. We also met a wedding party from Chicago.

Part of The Old Ground was the former Town Hall, and is now a restaurant in the hotel.

Hurling: We were baffled--but this is a popular sport 2,000 years old with big rivalry between towns. With all the Irish we have in the U.S., I’m not sure why this didn't catch on here--they sure love it. Here on September 15 we are watching a hurling demonstration played with sticks at Brod Tullaroan, a Heritage Center which has a hurling museum, where we also enjoyed a wonderful dinner. Notice our puzzled looks. John, our driver, is helping with the demo, while drinking a cup of coffee.

Lake, Sheila, Joy, Adele, Barbara, Jim, Barbara, Roxanna, Robert, Ronald, Lou, James, Lila, Art, John, Colette, Jan, Pam, ?, Joe



Islands, Aran: There are 3 islands off the west coast of Ireland, with a landscape like none other--huge rocks and very little soil. Most of the islanders speak Gaelic, and Irish students can come here to a special school to learn the language. We drove to Connemara on September 12 and ferried across Galway Bay to Rossaveal, Inishmore, the largest Aran island where we climbed to Dun Aengus for a fabulous view of the Atlantic at the top. We also shopped a bit and saw some local scenery.

I'm betting this will be one of my husband's watercolor paintings next year.



We bought my husband's new hat at the Aran Island store. You can see the ferry behind us.

Irish National Heritage Park, Wexford: Here on September 16 we walked through several thousand years of recreated Irish history from the stone age up through the early Christian era. Our guide showed us how they housed, clothed and fed themselves at various times in history.



The cross tells Biblical stories in the carvings.
Judy and John: Our tour guide and foster mother was Judy from Dublin. Our bus driver and color commentator was John from Limerick. Both had curly red hair and at times each was the other's second banana. I've never seen as much red hair as I saw in Ireland. Between the green fields, the sad songs, the ubiquitous pubs and the red hair, I was awash in what I thought were stereotypes.

Judy is not directing singing; she's getting our attention to get back on the ferry at Rossaveal. John was a bit less concerned. Although he didn't bring the bus over, he stayed in the town with those who didn't want to climb to the fortress.

Judy and John giving us our certificates at our Farewell Ceremony on September 18.

Our Ireland trip from D-G

Dun Aengus: A ruined cliff-side fortress on Inishmore, an Aran island, which we viewed on Wednesday with a hefty climb that challenged even our most athletic colleagues, up slippery rocks and stones, but well worth the trip. We also had a local tour in a small van of the island and lunch of salmon, rice, tomatoes and greens at the Mainistir House with tea and biscuits.





The fighting Illini, out of breath.
Economy: Ireland's economy really is the "Celtic Tiger." We were all stunned by the beautiful, new homes, the expensive cars, fashionable shops and the bustling towns. We saw many upscale developments, but also plush, single family homes. As the Guardian reported: "Hames ir far tae dear fer ordnar fowkquhan pit langside the wages oan the mainlan’. Developers pour ootbaag amounts o’ money fae their bottomless pockets." It would take 2 college educated professionals spending one income on the mortgage to buy a home in most areas.

In the tourism industry, the service people are almost all foreign--Brazil, Poland, Slovakia, Scotland, the middle-east, Philippines, Germany etc. The minimum wage is around 8 Euros, and apparently, not many Irish will work for that ($11.20) because they would lose their government benefits. The Manila waiter at our hotel is sending money home to his wife and 3 children--he goes home once a year. Controlling immigration is a bit easier on an island. Even so, the law has recently been changed; a baby born in Ireland is not automatically a citizen. We could learn a few things from them about anchor babies. Right now, they seem to think their immigrants are temporary and only in the tourist trade. Yes, we used to think that about our agricultural workers. They could learn a few things from us.

We stopped at a Catholic Church and the newsletter was bi-lingual--Portuguese and Polish. The outside sign was digital giving days and times of mass and events.

Famine: One can't over estimate the long term effect of the 19th century famine on the Irish, or the percolating bitterness against the English and the Anglo-Irish. Not only did it decimate its population, but it sent millions to the United States, Australia, New Zealand and Canada, where they enriched our culture. The population which had doubled in the early 1800s after the potato was introduced and changed their diet, was cut in half by the famine and the exodus. Many of the ships that carried them were called coffin ships because of the loss of life among the already sick and starving emigrants. While the people where evicted from their homes and starving, other crops that could have kept them alive were being exported.



Gaelic and English language: The Irish speak English and learn Gaelic as a second language (although it is a first language for many), however, English sounds quite different depending on the region or county of the speaker. John, our driver, was from Limerick and his vowels all seemed to melt into "a" as in farty (40); or far (for); and TH sound disappeared as in turty (30). Our guide Judy was from Dublin, but had lived about a decade in the USA. She's also an actress and gave us a stretch of dialogue from a play by a Dubliner--I didn’t understand a word. Road signs and many business names were in both languages. RTE, the Irish National Radio, which we received in our hotel rooms had news and programming in Gaelic.

Galway Bay:We didn't know our driver John had such a beautiful voice until on our way to lunch on the 10th he began to sing, Galway Bay, and for a brief moment, we were all displaced Irish longing for home:
"And if there's going to be a life hereafter
And somehow I feel sure there's going to be
I will ask my God to let me spend my heaven
In that dear isle across the Irish Sea."
Lunch overlooking Galway Bay

Genealogy: Interest in their Irish roots brings millions to Ireland, and there are Heritage Centers in each county with experience searchers to assist. On Thursday the 13th, Antoinette O'Brian of the Clare Heritage Center gave a fascinating presentation. The Irish didn't own their land and the rental agreements were set up so that all land eventually went back to the landlord. After the introduction of the potato, their tiny lots could support 10-15 people, and when that crop failed, evictions began of whole families. Today Ireland has the highest percentage of owner-occupied houses--ownership means a lot. Some of these centers have complete ledgers of people forced to leave. 125,000 people left County Clare, more than the current population. But the Irish continued to emigrate right up through the 1950s, and many didn't speak of the past. What you may know from family stories of your Irish ancestors is probably incorrect, she told us, with date of birth almost always wrong. Parish records have been indexed.

Memorial to a starving, orphaned child trying to get into the workhouse. The inscription begins: "Gentlemen, There is a little boy named Michael Rice of Lahinch aged about 4 years. . . "