Today's photo--Romena church in Tuscany, Italy

Romena church in Pratovecchio Stia, Tuscany, Italy was the photo (not mine) that came up today as I opened my computer. We've visited many countries after I retired in 2000, and Italy for beauty, history, and spirituality is still my favorite. 

"The Tuscany region in central Italy has been romanticized, and rightly so, for its rich history of art, music, literature, and cuisine. Add to that laudatory list the sheer breathtaking beauty of the place—Tuscany is simply one of the most scenic places on the planet. Our image captures a lyrically sublime sight of the region."

It took me back to our travels with the University of Illinois Alumni Society in 2008 in Italy. Here's what we did/saw/experienced.

Day One: Leave Chicago for Naples
Day Two: Arrive in Naples, get on a bus for Sorrento, 
Day Three: Motorcoach along the Amalfi Coast. Visit Positano. Back in Sorrento attend lecture and discussion.
Day Four: Pompeii. Meet the folks of Sorrento to hear about their lives.
Day Five: Isle of Capri.
Day Six: Discussion--that's all I see on the program.
Day Seven: Motorcoach to Orvieto. Wine tasting event
Day Eight: History of Orvieto and Umbria and Italy. Focus: Etruscans, who were there first. Walking tour. Cathedrals. Cobblestone streets. Discussion of Renaissance Art.
Day Nine: Walking tour of Florence. Architectural highlights.
Day Ten: Perugia and Assisi.
Day Eleven: Free day for sightseeing, shopping, etc.
Day Twelve: Motorcoach to Rome (which we won't see except the airport). Fly home. Based on previous tours, the only place we won't hear understandable English is the O'Hare Airport.

Travel is/was the joy of early retirement.  I'm glad we didn't wait too long, since it is difficult at this age.

Positano, Italy

Friday Family Photo--the Italy Album of 2008

Last night on our tour through our photo albums we went back to Italy, June 2008.  However, because I was hospitalized when we returned to Columbus, Bob did all the arranging of the hundreds of photos.  Nothing was written in the album, and after nine years we were a little fuzzy on the details. Was it Sorrento, Positano, Isle of Capri, Pompeii, Perugia, Assisi or Orvieto?  We dug through some boxes and photo disks today to see if we could find where the digital photos were--I had probably 15 on my blog posts I wrote after we returned. Maybe 200 in the album. And we found a box with probably another 200-300 photos.   We were able to find only those photos, and think that's because I wrote the blogs while we were in Lakeside, and the digital copies are on the old, old computer. Finally, after going through a stack of disks in my office I found one labeled, Italy 2008. I spent some time and finally got them downloaded to this computer. However, these photos are from the blogs I wrote in June 2008.  It was fun to look through that album--it was a great trip.

A page in the album, silent.

Map of the Amalfi Coast

Positano on Amalfi Coast

Orvieto on the last day

Lunch with tour friends in Florence

Bob with painted cow on Isle of Capri

Fourth time--is it a charm?

I picked up my new glasses this morning. This is the fourth pair since early June. I had selected dark, rectangular frames (sort of early 1960-ish), all the rage right now, but got some strange reflection, like a prism, where the lens and frame met--tried 3 different styles, both metal and plastic. I finally said I would have to go back to something similar to my old pair, with a frame only at the top. This photo is either the first or second pair, when I wore them occasionally in Italy in June. The third pair I could see distance and computer range, but couldn't read comfortably. I wore those about 15 minutes. No one will even notice the fourth pair because even I can hardly tell them from the old ones.

Italy, Saturday Day 11, Orvieto

We had a free day to explore the city before we boarded the bus to drive to Rome for the flight home on Sunday. There was a Saturday Farmer's Market right around the corner from our hotel. Wonderful local produce, cheese, meat, flowers, and clothing.

Italy, Friday Day 3, Positano

You don't know the meaning of "narrow, winding route" until you've shut your eyes tight on the Amalfi Coast. We started Day 3 leaving Sorrento for Positano and Amalfi. I've seen accounts that the locals are aggressive drivers, but faced with our bus, they were very well behaved. The scenery really is gorgeous if you're not sitting by the window ("don't look up, don't look down" were the first 2 rules I saw in a guidebook). The history of this area is a bit murky, with the first recorded information starting in the 9-10th centuries. But there are lots of wars, a fuedal system, maritime adventures and church squabbles to look into here.



Checking out the shops



and street signage
and lovely flowers of Positano
The parish church of Santa Maria Assunta in the Piazza Flavio Gioia.

Italy, going to the dogs, cats and cows

We saw scooters every where--women zipping around in high heels and mini-skirts, children, groups, and dogs. What we didn't see were traffic lights.

Positano pup at the gas station
Isle of Capri cow
Orvieto kitty day 8
Orvieto kitty day 11
Orvieto cats
Orvieto dogs

Italy, Day 7 through 11, Umbria and Orvieto, Cathedral

There are probably hundreds of wonderful medium size towns where you could rent a flat for a few months and enjoy the riches of Italian culture, but for me, I'd choose Orvieto. You can turn down a street and be in medieval times, or ride down the mountain on a cable car and be in modern times. It has good access to the autostrada and enjoys public transportation. You could take the train to other towns for alternate cultures and experiences. At our wonderful 19th c. hotel, there was a group of art students from SMU finishing up a month's study. In addition to a wonderful farmers' market, there are small deli's and groceries with modern products. And the art and restaurants! Oh, my. Fabulous.







The Cathedral of Orvieto was built beginning in 1290 on the foundation of an older cathedral which was built on an Etruscan temple. It developed over a period of centuries, so although it was begun as Romanesque, it became Gothic and numerous architects, sculptors and artists worked on it over the years in marble, stone, glass, mosaic, and bronze. The window is attributed to Orcagna (Andrea de Cione). The four piers around the doors depict Biblical stories, beginning with the creation, moving to Messianic prophecy, then Christ's life, then finally the last judgment and Hell. Quite vivid, I might add. Glass panels have been added to protect the art from vandalism.

Italy, Friday day 10, Perugia & Assisi, after lunch

As I mentioned yesterday, here at Lakeside (our summer home on Lake Erie) the story of St. Francis was the topic of a lecture series, which included the film, Brother Sun Sister Moon. We didn't see the whole film, getting mostly the birds, animals, the lovely Clare, and ending with the lead actor's beautiful naked body as he throws off his clothes and accepts a life of poverty so he can follow Christ. But it does contain a lot of truth about the battle the Christian has even today with the sirens of comfort and materialism. In St. Francis' day, it was mainly the wealthy merchants and church officials, but today, it's just about everyone in America. Just like the 13th century, the churches join in, rather than lead, and constant renewal is necessary.


I don't recall the name of the restaurant where we ate after touring Perugia, but of all the pasta dishes we had in Italy, I think this was my favorite--with truffles (mushrooms, a regional specialty), a cream sauce and a little pork sausage (which I'm sure has a real name), with a lettuce salad with tuna, tomatoes, olives and mozzarella. The other tour group sharing the dining room were all using sign language.



The fortifications of Assisi included two fortresses in addition to the walls: Rocca Maggiore at the top of the hill and Rocca Minore built in the 14th c.

Boy! We're we hot--looking for shade, gelato, and the bus. These ladies were with the Illinois group, great fun!



The Basilica de San Francesco was built to honor St. Francis upon his canonization. The site is known as "paradise Hill" chosen to parallel Golgotha, the site of Christ's crucifixion. His crypt is on display as well as those of his closest companions. The art is so magnificent you just can't describe it. I had a little difficulty hearing our guide, but I suspect the experience could have been more spiritual with a believer.



Most of these pilgrims and tourists are our AHI tour group at the Basilica de Santa Chiara--Janet, Ed, Ted, Ellen, Andy, Judy, Bill, etc.--modeled on the forms of the upper Basilica of St. Francis. Clare also renounced her family and wealth and devoted herself to Christ and the poor.

For some reason our final group of photos is missing from the processed disk, so I'll have to add them later.

Italy, Friday Day 10, Perugia & Assisi, before lunch

Today at Lakeside we had a lecture and film (Brother Sun Sister Moon, 1972, which played well both in the new agey 1970s and 35 years later in today's environmental neo-pagan worship of mother earth) about St. Francis of Assisi, so I thought it a good time to review Day 10 of our Italy trip.

In Orvieto we piled into small vans, motored down hill from our delightful 19th c. hotel, and then boarded the big, comfortable, air conditioned tour bus for a trip to Perugia and Assisi, through some magnificent countryside, not the least of which is the view coming down the mountain to get on the super highway. In addition to being known for chocolate, ceramics and beautiful vistas, Perugia in the past had a reputation for bellicosity. In fact Giovanni Battista (St. Francis) got his military experience in a campaign against Perugia, after which he spent a year in prison. After his military experience he returned home to Assisi and had a conversion, left his family's wealth and devoted his life to prayer and poverty.

After escalators and stairs, our first view was underground. Perugia was home of some wealthy, war-like families who also battled the church, so as a punishment the pope had a fortress built on top of their homes. We walked underground to view the remains of the ancient city, where homes of the 16th c. are still on view.





I hope I'm not making any serious identification mistakes, but I believe this is the Fontana Magiore, a 13th c. fountain flanked by the statue of Pope Julius II and Cathedral of San Lorenzo with the Cappella del Santo Anelo inside (my husband was clicking the camera--I was running along behind trying to read Italian signs). These ancient buildings require constant attention, thus the scaffolding.



Perugia is the capital of Umbria with lots of shops for tourists and medieval back streets to explore. It is known for truffles, olive oil, chocolate and beautiful hand painted ceramics. We didn't buy any chocolate--well, maybe just one chocolate gelato, but there were many tempting shops.



We did not tour the Galleria Nazionale dell' Umbria which contains the art treasures of the Umbrian area, but we went into one gallery area and noticed the staff finds ways to park their cars.

Italy, Thursday, Day 9, after lunch

After our brisk walking tour of Florence in the morning, a group of us headed to Ristorante Pennello, recommended by our AHI guide, Mick. The food was great--I had a plate of rice and vegetables, which is close to what I eat at home and my husband had soup. Actually, we didn't find any bad food in Italy (unless it was what I ate at the Rome airport which might have caused my intestinal disturbance sending me to the ER). I don't know all the names, but we had a different type of pasta every day. Every day.

With Velta and George in Florence
After lunch we backtracked to the Basilica and got in line, and it moved fairly quickly.



Dome interior
From there we did this rather odd zig zag lope through Florence. This isn't an exact map, but I think it was close. And it was so hot. I whined a lot!



From the Basilica we walked to the Dominican church of Santa Maria Novella, begun in 1246 and standing on an earlier church built in 1094. The marble was added in the 14th c.--seemed to be a trend in renovation back then. We might have just spent the day there, because there are many chapels all filled with art, but we moved on.



Then we looked for the bridge, also a tourist site, so we could get to Palazzo Pitti.

You could spend a day just browsing the shops on this bridge. "Oh look, honey, it's only 1,250 Euro!" "Can't stop now."
Palazzo Pitti, built for banker Luca Pitti in the 1450s, became the Medici family residence. Because the outside isn't particularly charming or beautiful, we didn't take a photo, and I'm not sure we were allowed to inside. Anyway, there are 8 museums in this building, in which any one you could spend days. The Gallerina Palatina collection (16th-18th c.) alone houses Titan and Rubens, Fiorentino and Sarto. Other galleries are Jove, Saturn, Education, Justice, costume, modern art and silver.

Borrowed photo from the web, but I could easily be among the sitting tourists while my husband went to get the very expensive tickets. If you are traveling with or are an artist, this is a great place; with an architect, not so much.



From Palazzo Pitti we galloped along the river, crossing to see the medieval church Santa Croce, magnificent even with scaffolding. According to legend it was founded by St Francis in the 13th century. It contains the tombs of some of Italy's most illustrious sons--Ghiberti, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Galileo, Nori, Bruni and Rossini. It contains wonderful frescos, according to my guidebook, but by this time I couldn't move another step, and sat down, while my husband went in without me.



Thursday, Day 9, Before lunch