415 Update on Trip to Buffalo

Day Two, Friday

When you tour Frank Lloyd Wright sites, you get an earful of his colorful history which included financial disasters, personal tragedies, love affairs, devoted students, and love-hate relationships with his clients. His career took place during a time when people communicated in letters, not by phone or e-mail. This exchange between Wright and his client William Heath in 1927 about a proposed gas stations for Buffalo is a classic example of what researchers have to work with:

"Dear Mr. Wright: Your letter of the 12th received, you say herewith sketches etc., but the herewith were not therewith, whereof we do not know wherewith they are; so we can not return them or comment upon them."

The long letter is quoted in the excellent article "An Ornament to the Pavement: Frank Lloyd Wright's Buffalo Gas Station," by Patrick J. Mahoney, Western New York Heritage, Summer/Fall 2003, Vol.6,no.3, pp. 18-35. Mr. Mahoney, a practicing architect, is the Vice President of Graycliff Conservancy and our very informative tour guide when we visited that home south of Buffalo on the cliffs of Lake Erie in Derby, NY.

We'd arrived at Graycliff at the end of a busy, exciting Friday that had started with a tour of the Butler Mansion, across the street from our hotel. Buffalo at one time was the 10th wealthiest city in the United States, according to our local tour guide, Marilyn. On Thursday evening after we'd checked in, she gave us a walking tour of the historic district, Allentown, where we saw many colorful turn of the century (the last one) homes, more modest than the mansions lining Delaware Avenue, but certainly quite posh and lovingly restored.

On Friday morning we had the Butler Mansion tour, now used as Jacobs Executive Development Center, which has been through extensive renovation. It was designed by McKim, Mead & White and the original drawings which were discovered in 1990 were on the wall.

We visited two neighborhoods that had FLW homes (no tours, private residences), the Davidson residence (1908) and the Heath residence (1904). We toured Forest Lawn Cemetery, which offers historic tours called "Sunday in the Cemetery." We were there to see (but not photograph) the construction of the only mausoleum designed by FLW. It was not built because of the client's financial losses during the Depression. It is now under construction and the 24 crypts will be sold to help finance it.

Then we had lunch at Ulrich's Tavern, Buffalo's oldest tavern, sort of a German-Irish, blue collar-white collar pub that only locals like Marilyn can find. From there we drove to the restored Larkin Warehouse. The owner gave us a tour of this wonderful old warehouse now used for law offices and businesses. Larkin was a soap manufacturer that developed a marketing scheme that used premiums which soon became an industry in and of itself. An area of the first floor has been set aside as a museum of Larkin products and premiums. This is also the site of FLW's famous Larkin Administration Building. The link will provide its interesting design, history and demise, which I encourage you to read. The closest we could get to this masterpiece was to visit this pier.

Day 2, Afternoon and Evening

Then we drove to the lovely old community of East Aurora, NY to visit the Roycroft Arts and Crafts Community. Wright and the executives and their families of Larkin were all bound together. One of the Larkin executives was Elbert Hubbard, a brother-in-law of the founder, John Durrant Larkin. Hubbard was the brains behind the premiums with soap marketing scheme. After making his fortune, he sold his share, and founded Roycrofters in 1893. He and his wife died when the Lusitania was sunk in 1915. Hubbard wasn't divine (as he claimed in his personal credo), but his influence on the arts and crafts movement and Frank Lloyd Wright was significant.

From East Aurora we drove to the lovely "Old Orchard Inn" built in 1880, snuggled in the hills of western New York, with some exciting moves by our bus driver Roseanne, who didn't like narrow roads or low viaducts. We didn't have much time as we needed to be at Graycliff before dusk, but we had a wonderful meal--ham or chicken, with carrots, potatoes, salad, and drinks.

After snaking our huge bus out of the Inn's parking lot and detouring around underpasses Roseanne thought were too low, we finally got to Graycliff where the pleasant staff gave us flashlights, because we were losing the sun setting over the glorious Erie. No photos allowed on the inside, but we got some good shots of the outside of the Martin's summer home (another Larkin executive who first brought FLW to Buffalo) and the chauffeur's cottage.

Frank Lloyd Wright had a 33 year relationship with the Martin family, and designed the home of Darwin and Esabelle Martin in Buffalo. She apparently thought the house not easy to live in and too dark, so she wanted something to capture the sunlight on this cliff on Lake Erie because her eyesight was failing. Our tour group had visited this site in 1995 when it still belonged to a Hungarian group of monks and was in very poor condition. It is being lovingly restored by the Graycliff Conservancy. Our 2 hour "hard hat tour" was superbly led by Mr. Mahoney, whose personal collection of FLW drawings hung in the visitors' center and gift shop.

An exhausted, but fat and happy tour group, returned to the hotel in Buffalo, to rest up for day 3.